The Story of Fanal Forest, Madeira
Fanal Forest in Madeira, with its unique Laurel trees and fairytale-like atmosphere, is the ideal place to reconnect with nature, far away from the hustle and bustle of life. Hannah and I think it is one of the best things to do in Madeira, especially when fog creeps in and shrouds the famous mystically shaped trees (which happens often).
The Fanal Forest is part of the larger subtropical Laurissilva Forest, a UNESCO site of about 15,000 hectares (!), and home to many different plant and animal species. Many of these are unique to Madeira, including the iconic Laurel trees that give the area its distinctive character.
Hannah and I had no fog during our sunrise visit in April, however, we would still highly recommend to visit this magical place.
Because of these trees, the forest sees high humidity and constant temperatures year long. Add the high altitude to the equation, and you’ll often see the landscape covered in a thick, moving fog!
Did you know? These tall trees grow broadly so that their leaves can absorb the moisture from the mist that often covers the forest. The tallest ones can reach up to 40 meters and some are said to be 800 years old!
In between, you’ll find a few peaceful water ponds, the Fanal Witch Tree, many free-roaming cows, beautiful local birds, and hiking trails that swerve past the ferns and twisted branches. Note: Though they’re not dangerous, do keep a safe distance from the cows.
We found the best thing to do in Fanal Forest is to simply wander aimlessly through the area, soak up the incredible atmosphere, snap some photos, and witness the sunrise from high up on the hill. This is the perfect spot to spend a couple of hours and then continue on your Madeira itinerary, for example to go for a swim at Porto Moniz.
Tip: As it lies close to Porto Moniz and Seixal, combine your trip with a stop at one of the iconic natural pools. Read about all the best things to do in Madeira.
Hiking in Fanal Forest
Throughout Fanal Forest, you’ll also find several hiking trails to further delve into the area’s lusciousness. Wander between the ferns, mosses, and incredible trees, and soak up all the shades of green for the day. This is the perfect way to escape into Madeira’s untouched beauty!
Levada dos Cedros (PR14)
This hike starts at the water outcrops of Lombo do Cedro, passes through the laurel trees, and ends at a stunning waterfall. The total route is 7.2 km (round trip), with views of some of the most incredible, lush scenery. The trailhead lies here, though you can also walk the route the other way around.
Unlike the PR13 (below), this trail is less visited, offering long sections along the stunning hike all to yourself. It’s also a ‘levada’ route, meaning it worms its way along the narrow water channels dug into the mountain.
Vereda do Fanal (PR13)
The PR13 starts on the Paúl da Serra plateau and takes you straight through Fanal Forest for 11 km. This is a point-to-point route, meaning that you’ll have to walk the same way back, doubling your hike in kilometers.
How to Get to Fanal Forest, Madeira
Where is Fanal Forest in Madeira?
Fanal Forest lies in the mountainous region of Paúl da Serra on the northwestern side of Madeira. From the capital city of Funchal, it’s about an hour’s drive to the mystical forest. The road quickly increases in elevation, leading high up into the interior mountains of the island.
By Car
The easiest way to get to Fanal Forest is by car. Simply type in ‘Fanal Parking’ on Google Maps and follow the road up into the greenery. As this route leads you through the mountains, the roads zigzag along the hills. When you’re entering the park road, make sure to drive slowly (about 50 km/h max!) because so many bunny rabbits cross the roads that appear suddenly.
We recommend to rent a car in Madeira through Sunny Cars with free cancellation and insurance included. Book your rental car here.
There are two parking lots, a larger one and a small one at the Fanal Forestry Station behind it. Once you park your car, you’ll immediately be swept up in the magic of the forest. The viewpoint lies only a few hundred meters from the parking lots. It can get busy, so make sure to arrive early or visit around sunset. During our sunrise visit in April, there was lots of space.
Fanal Forest Madeira Tour
Alternatively, if you don’t have your own transportation, you can book an organized tour. With an informative local guide, explore the entire northwest side of Madeira, including a visit to the magical Fanal Forest.
Where to Stay
As it lies only an hour’s drive away, most people visit Fanal Forest from Funchal, the island’s vibrant capital city. Funchal has a variety of accommodations, from charming boutique hotels and guesthouses to luxurious resorts with ocean views.
Alternatively, Porto Moniz is also a perfect spot to base yourself. It’s a lot quieter than Funchal, but it still has plenty of great hotels and restaurants. It’s also located close to many of the other top things to see on the final days of your Madeira itinerary.
Best Time to Visit the Fanal Forest in Madeira
The best time to visit Fanal Forest in Madeira is early in the morning, ideally around sunrise. As the forest lies at 1150 meters above sea level, it often shrouds itself in a mystical fog. Although the weather can be unpredictable, early mornings (8-9 AM) are known to increase your chances of experiencing this foggy magic, adding a surreal, otherworldly touch to the ancient trees.
What to Pack
Fanal Forest is a beautiful and must-see location on your Madeira itinerary and is one of the more popular things to do when visiting the island. Here are some items to pack to make your trip to this incredible site unforgettable:
- Comfortable hiking shoes. Wear shoes with good traction to navigate the often soggy and mossy forest floor.
- Rain jacket: a great item for the frequent mist and rain in Fanal Forest.
- Layered clothing. Due to the forest’s higher elevation and persistent fog, it can get a bit chilly.
- Your camera. You’ll want to capture the ethereal beauty of the laurel trees and enchanting landscapes, with or without the mist.
- Snacks and water. There are no cafes or restaurants nearby, so pack a picnic and enough provisions for your hike.
- Map or GPS. Useful for navigating the forest trails, especially in dense fog.
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