PR9: Levada do Caldeirão Verde
The picturesque hike of Levada do Caldeirão Verde (PR9) is the perfect option for those looking for a moderately challenging route, as it offers scenic views without the difficulty of a steep uphill climb. The trail is mainly flat, as it hugs one of the island’s Levadas, which are manufactured irrigation channels that now create walking paths across Madeira.
Important details:
- Total km: 12 km
- Time: 5 – 6 hours
- Elevation: 600 meters
- Difficulty: Moderate
- Route type: In-and-out
- Entrance: Free to visit, no tickets.
- Starting point: Queimadas Forest Park
Nine of these PR routes are levadas, with one of the prettiest being Levada do Caldeirão Verde. It’s one of the top things to do on your Madeira itinerary!
If you enjoy hiking the levada routes, there are 1000s of kilometers of levadas across Madeira (there are only nine that are classified as PR routes).
Levada Caldeirão Verde Route
Begin your hike at Queimedas Forestry Park, just a short drive away from the village of Santana, with its traditional Madeiran houses (well worth a stop on your way home!).
Your in-out route to the waterfall is about 6 km one way (1.5-2 hours), so you should allocate about 5-6 hours to this hike, allowing for time at the waterfall and a picnic along the way.
Located in the luscious Sao Jorge Valley, the PR9 Levada Caldeirão Verde has a real jungle feel as you spend the first part of the hike among dense Laurel Forest, with stunning Ferns lining the path.
About an hour into the hike, you’ll already see your first smaller waterfall (there are several along the route), providing a stunning addition to the breathtaking nature you’ve already seen.
Note: The hiking path is small and narrow, hugging the levada irrigation channel. For this reason, it’s always good to allow extra time to let other hikers pass on your route.
What’s unique about this hike is that you’ll pass through four tunnels, two short and two longer. Some have very low ceilings and are very dark inside, so bring a flashlight to guide the way. If it’s rained recently, there can also be a fair bit of water on the tunnel floor, so make sure to wear waterproof hiking boots.
Caldeirão Verde Waterfall
What greets you on the other side of the tunnels is nothing short of jaw-dropping! You’ll leave the dense green forest behind and emerge onto the edge of a high cliff, with a fantastic view of the valley, mountains, and the ocean on the horizon. To the right side, you’ll have a sheer drop, which is fenced off to protect you, but take care all the same.
As you get closer to the waterfall, you’ll hear it before you see it, the force of the water echoing through the forest. The fall, plunging from a height of around 100 meters, is breathtaking, surrounded by a moss-covered rockface that hugs the deep pool below. The beautiful greenery gives this waterfall its name: Caldeirão Verde, meaning Green Cauldron.
Important note: The waterfall is actually fenced off to protect visitors from the risk of landslides. However, a well-trodden route leads you closer to the falls, where you can swim in the pools. Hannah and I did not swim there as the risk of falling rocks is high, so although many people choose to follow this path, do so at your own risk.
Can You Swim in Caldeirão Verde?
Although it’s not technically allowed because of the risk of landslides, many people do swim at Caldeirão Verde. Exercise caution because of falling rocks, and remember that the water up here is absolutely freezing!
After your refreshing swim, enjoy a picnic in the area near the falls—the perfect reward after your long walk.
Read: The complete 10-day Madeira itinerary!
How Long is PR9 Levada do Caldeirão Verde?
The hike is in-and-out, meaning you’ll walk the same route back. One way is about 6 km, so a 12 km return route takes around 5-6 hours. We found that this allows enough time to enjoy the falls and nature along the way. You also need some extra time to allow people to pass along the narrow path.
Caldeirão do Inferno
Up for a bit more of a challenge? Instead of returning to the car park, continue from the falls for another 2.5 KM to Caldeirão do Inferno. This will bring you to another mammoth waterfall, with a deep mossy canyon on the journey.
Distance: This adds another 7 KM to your hike, so leave plenty of time to attempt it. People generally say the entire route takes around 6-7 hours with stops.
Top Tips for PR9 Madeira
Follow these top tips to get the most out of your hike along Levada do Caldeirão Verde:
- It rains much more in this part of Madeira, so pack a good waterproof jacket. You may also want a good cover for your backpack to protect your things from getting wet.
- Additionally, there is a lot of water splashing onto the trail from the smaller falls along the way, and shallow water pools in some of the tunnels. Regular sneakers will not work for this hike; you’ll need proper waterproof hiking boots!
- Pack some extra layers. Most of the trail is in the shade, so it can be much cooler, even on a sunny day. We once made this mistake, haha! (Learn more about how to pack)
- Check the weather beforehand (see all live webcams around the island).
- Bring a head torch or a flashlight, or use your phone light to guide yourself through the tunnels. Some of these roofs are relatively low, so watch your head!
- Past the tunnels, there are some fenced-off areas with steep drops. It’s completely safe, but if you’re afraid of heights, this section is something to be aware of.
- It’s a fairly long hike to reach Caldeirão Verde, so bring a picnic to enjoy once you get to the falls. (Please take your trash back with you; thank you! 🤗)
- You can also get a bite to eat or coffee at the cafe at Queimadas Forestry Park (where you begin your route).
- Look for the famous Madeiran firecrest bird, often seen along this trail. We saw them at the Caldeirão Verde Waterfall.
How do I get to PR9 Madeira?
By Car
The easiest way to get to PR9 Levada do Caldeirão Verde is by car, which takes under an hour from Funchal. Please note that the road from Santana to the start of the trail is very narrow, so take care. Particularly at peak times, there can be a buildup of traffic here, so we recommend arriving as early as possible to avoid this.
The early start also means you’ll get a guaranteed parking spot (the availability is limited and first come, first serve. Even when we came in April (not high season), it was hard to get a spot.
Parking cost: 3 EUR
We recommend to rent a car in Madeira through Sunny Cars with free cancellation and insurance included. Book your rental car here.
By Bus
If you don’t have a car, you can reach the trail by bus, but it’s a bit more complicated (and takes much longer). You’ll need to take bus 138 to Santana (approximately 2 hours) and then a taxi from there to the start. See the full bus schedule here.
By Organized Tour
Another great option is to join an organized tour of PR9 Madeira that includes return transport and a guide. Some tours only include the transfer, allowing you to hike the trail yourself. Both are great options, depending on what you’re looking for.
Tip: You can order a taxi at the cafe by the trail entrance (a good option after the hike).
Best Time to Visit Levada do Caldeirão Verde
The PR9 Levada do Caldeirão Verde is stunning all year round. However, one of its most beautiful features is the luscious greenery along most of the trail. This is at its most green during spring and summer. We also recommend hiking in the early morning or the later afternoon when it’ll be least busy, allowing you to enjoy the tranquility of nature.
Tip: For a dry and sunny hike, check the weather beforehand. You can do this by checking the live webcams around the island. Please note that the weather can change quickly up in the mountains, so always be prepared with waterproof gear and layers.
Where to Stay
If you’d like to stay close to the PR9 Levada do Caldeirão Verde hike, there are various options on the island’s east side. For example, hotels in Santana (traditional village with quintessential Madeiran houses) or the surrounding area near Faial or Sao Jorge, a short drive away.
For the most convenience on your Madeira itinerary, stay in the capital city of Funchal, where most accommodation options are. It’s the most accessible jumping-off point for Madeira’s best hikes, including PR9 Levada do Caldeirão Verde. Most public transport leaves from Funchal, which is particularly helpful if you don’t have a car.
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